In a word, yes! How does the length of an air hose affect whether or not your air tools work properly?
It is because compressed air flowing through an air line, whether a rubber hose, a PVC hose, a copper pipe, or black iron pipe, encounters resistance as the air flows along the inner surface of the air line. This slows the flow of compressed air at the edges.
The turbulence created by the flow of compressed air rubbing against the walls of the air hose or pipe, and a particularly over long distance, creates a significant amount of turbulence in the air hose.
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The longer the hose the greater the impact of this turbulence on the flow of air. The net result of this is loss of compressed air flow and that results in the pressure drop where the air exits the air hose to the air tool. 
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If you started with 100′ of 1/2″ rubber hose, and pumped air at 100 PSI into one end of it, you would not get 100 PSI out the other end.
The amount pressure drop can be seen by reading the air gauge at the tank, and then by plumbing the end of the hose into an air gauge that has a coupler attached. Pressure loss will be lower or greater, this depending on the smoothness of the inner air hose surface.
Add another 100′ of hose and your pressure at the end of 200′ of run would be less, even though you are still pouring a constant flow of air at 100 PSI into the hose at the supply end. Make the hose longer still, and the yield at the air-tool end would be less still.
Then, if you add elbows, angles and tees to the air line, each time you do, you increase resistance to flow even further, and this costs you in flow and pressure at the point of use.
What can be done then when air is required some distance from the air compressor to help reduce the effects of a lengthy air hose on compressed air loss.
If the air compressor is portable the tendency may be to move the compressor closer to the point of use, this reducing the amount of air hose necessary to get air to the air tool.
This can create a separate problem however because if the air compressor is electrically powered then one would need to use an extension cord to get power to the motor when the compressor is some distance from the power source. If a too small extension cord is used, this meaning that the gauge of the wire is too thin, then the compressor motor will be underpowered leading to maintenance issues with the motor and possibly the compressor not running at all.
What can be done while limiting exposure to maintenance issues is to increase the diameter of the air hose.
A larger air hose, while still having turbulence where the compressed air meets the walls of the hose, will have a greater amount of air in the middle of the hose that has experienced less exposure to the turbulence resulting in greater flow to the air tool at the end of the hose.
If there is a need to add to fittings keep the number of air fittings to the absolute minimum.
If possible, increase the air pressure entering the hose. Starting with a higher air pressure means, even though you will lose flow and pressure due to turbulence in the air line still, the higher the compressed air pressure at the hose beginning will mean more higher pressure and flow at the air tool end.
No compressed air coming out of the hose!
Here is the scenario. The tank gauge shows 125 PSI. The regulator is set for 60 PSI. There’s an air line from the discharge coupler on the tank, and on the other end is a tire chuck.
I sometimes forget how what seems so simple to some folks can be really confusing to people that don’t do whatever it is often enough to become comfortable with it.
Something that is as simple as getting air to flow out of the compressor, to an air tool, for example. On my compressed air info site, I’ve been getting a steady stream of questions from folks with just this problem. So I’ve written a check list for you.
It’s summer – more water in the air lines!
While I am a supporter of draining the air compressor tank after every use, and leaving the drain open, I know some folks do not subscribe.
Be aware that now that summer has arrived in much of the North, finally, along with the warmer summer temperatures comes higher humidity. Using your compressor in the summertime for the same duration as you did in the winter, will mean that you get a lot more water ingested and pumped into your tank.
You may find, all of a sudden, that you are getting water blowing out of your air tools exhaust port. That being the case, you will want to drain the tank more often, and you may want to add a compressed air FILTER to your air line if you haven’t already got one.
You can’t tell an air hose from it’s cover
There’s lots of information on this blog about air hose, but here’s an updated.
I always get a chuckle when people look at an air hose lying on the floor, and declare that it “must be” a 1″ line…and they’re deciding that from looking at the outside diameter of the hose.
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Different air hose manufacturers and hoses manufactured to different standards and applications have different wall thicknesses and a variety of cladding. As a result, a 1/2″ air hose might have a 3/4″ O.D., or maybe a 1 1/2″ O.D..
If you want to know what size the air hose is, measure the I.D. (inner diameter). That size, whatever it is, is the actual size of that air hose.
Measure the Hose I.D. – that’s the size of the air hose
Not all manufacturers manufacture their compressed air hose to the same outside diameter as another company’s hose.
Can you remember where you HID the hose?
If you remember the acronym HID, and that it stands for “hose I.D.”, this will help you remember that air hose size is measured on the inside diameter not the outside.
It doesn’t matter what the O.D. (outside diameter) of the air hose is, it’s the I.D. (inside diameter) that you need to know to get the correct air fitting.
Compressed Air hose worn out?
Air hose is expensive. Before chucking it out, are you sure it’s worn out? Or is it just that it’s sprung a leak or two from being walked on or driven over all these years? You don’t have to throw it away.
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Your local hardware store should have a double barbed air fitting the same size as the internal diameter of your hose. They will also likely have gear clamps a little bigger than the outside diameter of your hose.
Make sure the air is turned off and the line is empty. Cut out the worn parts and slide one of the gear clamps over each piece of hose. Insert one side of the barbed fitting into each hose I.D., slide the gear clamps back up over the hose where the barb is inserted, and tighten the clamps. There, good as new for many more years of life.
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Good points shown here. But is there a simple formula that would show how much cfm is loss with a hundred foot hose at 90 psi.
Hi Mitchell, The following link shows air pressure loss per foot per 100ft hose. https://www.engineersedge.com/pipe_flow_air.htm You can aso use an online CFM loss calculator according to the diameter of the hose https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pressure-drop-compressed-air-pipes-d_852.html